Jakarta, where postmodernism and Muslim intersect

By GDL

With a population of more than 230 million where around 85 percent are Muslims, Indonesia is said to be the biggest Muslim country. While this statement could be correct, to say that it is a conservative society is probably incorrect. Being a Muslim country does not necessarily mean a conservative society as far as Jakarta in particular, and Indonesia in general, are concerned.

While there  is a very small minority, if not a pocket of Muslim fundamentalists, (as it is probably the case in many western countries), they tend to be more vocal and visible, going to the extent of using unconventional methods to make themselves heard. These fundamentalists are only trying to destabilise the country as they have no plan for the future. Their only aim is to make Indonesia an Islamic Republic, and would not care less for the betterment of the millions. The Bali bombing following September 11, was a very bad publicity for the country, mainly from western countries like Australia. Indonesia, however, seems to have recovered from that ugly and sad event.Since the attempted murder on the President Susilo Bambang Yudihoyono, following his overwhelming second time election, the terrorists are closely watched and the Jamiah Islamya has meanwhile, been dismantled.

Save for these fundamentalists, the “Muslims” of Indonesia are very open and progressive. They do not follow strict Muslim or Sharia laws. The Muslim religion was introduced well after the Hindu and Buddhist religions in the archipelago, by Arab merchants in the 16^th and 17^th Centuries. In fact the songs and dance are still closer to the Indian ones. The danduk is more of the Bollywood style.

Mr Jacques Santoo, a French businessman who is married to a Muslim Indonesian and has lived in Indonesia for more than 20 years, explained, “Among most Indonesians, Islam is only an element in a syncretic belief system that also includes Animist and Hindu-Buddhist concepts. Javanese culture for example, has its own authenticity, specificity, customs, traditions, family rules and social structure which are not disturbed by the Islam religion. Javanese (and Sundanese) are noticeably more open to western culture in their consumption patterns and lifestyle. Some of the shopping centres are very modern and are always full and overcrowded on Sundays.”

For the Javanese, as well as for the other ethnic groups like the Sundanese, Mandurese and Coastal Malays and Balinese, there is a noticeable demarcation between culture and religion. All while being Muslim, the religious belief does not impinge or influence the Javanese culture. This is very obvious and conspicuous when visiting Jakarta and mixing with the people.
Never will anyone be greeted by “Salam malaikum” but rather by “Salamat pagi or Salamat tidur ” meaning Good Morning, or Good Night”.
The language, Bahasa Indonesia, is the lingua franca of Indonesia. It is a symbol of unity and nationalism, adopted as the official and national language, among the 300 different languages spoken throughout Indonesia. It is a dynamic language which is contently absorbing new vocabulary including English, which is the most popular foreign language.
It is very appreciated if the visitor could speak a few words of Indonesia which will be rewarded by “Wah, saudah lancar bahasa Indonesia” (oh, you speak Indonesian!”)  which is a compliment to your fluency.

Mrs Danielle Adolphe an expat teacher, who has worked in Jakarta for many years. said, “Javanese are generally shy but very polite, agreeable and do not like arguing. Faced with an embarrassing situation they will simply smile as a way of withdrawal.”
The people Indonesia put emphasis on politeness and civilities. For example they will never accept a gift if you do not insist. The word “Tolong” (please) and “Terima kasih” (Thank you) are always present in conversation with a bow.

While from outside there is the perception that Indonesia is a conservative Muslim society, the internal reality is completely different. If some girls or women wear the Jilab it absolutely does not mean that they are conservative or submissive. These ladies are on the contrary very free and open. The Jilab (covering the head only) is very elegantly worn with T-shirt and tight jean. Two young “Muslim” girls could be seen riding their motorbikes until late at night, even in the remote country areas.

As opposed to the hypocrisy in the western world, the sex industry is a booming business and brothels are fully legalised as they form a big part of the economic activity. They provide jobs for the millions who would otherwise be unemployed and living in abject poverty. It is the case not only for the girls, but also all other associated jobs like cleaners, bar attendants, etc… There are many big and sophisticated brothels in Jakarta, where hundreds of young and beautiful girls “work” in the open. The brothels are mere big entertainment centres. These are places for locals and tourists can freely consume alcohol, socialise, listen to live music and watch a show. This industry forms a big part of the strong aggregate internal consumer demands.

With a market of more than 230 million consumers, Indonesian’s economy is very strong. If it is now ranked among the top ten economies in the world, it is poised to be the fourth behind China, USA, Europe and India by the year 2040. This vast country covers the biggest part of the intersection between the Indian Ocean and the Pacific Ocean. It is the gateway to these two oceans.
Indonesia’s economy escaped the global financial crisis because of its strong reliance on internal consumer demands and imports for only 20 percent of its GDP. The country produces it own petrol besides being rich in mineral resources like gold and iron ore. The GDP per capita is around $U4,334.
If there are ominous signs of wealth, if not opulence, in Indonesia like top class hotels and boutiques and luxurious cars, there are still many facets of a third world country. There are many old and shabby buildings and houses and millions are still living below the poverty line. However this should be taken with care as poverty is a relative concept in Indonesia, not to be interpreted and applied with the same measurement of western societies. Indonesians though “poor” are happy, always smiling and do not complain. They are very enterprising and are content with what they have.

Happiness is what you make out of it. It is something that money can’t buy specially in Indonesia.